Unfortunately, Not enough people turned to justify keeping the machine knitting group going, so I have canceled this activity. Thanks to those who turned out. please contact me at email@example.com for help with your machine and maybe we can work out a tie to help you.
If you do have a machine, to get you started Here are some tips on cast-ons
RAW EDGE CAST ON
v Place all of the needles that you want to use into the “E” position. Carriage on the right. Take your cast on comb into your left hand with the hooks facing you. Place the cast on comb up against the needle bed so that the hooks are pointing up to the ceiling. Using whatever yarn you want, place it into feeder “A” of the carriage and close the latch to keep it in place. Knit one row to the left, passing the carriage over the cast on comb. If you have the comb tight against the machine and the hooks of it pointing up and pushed up, poking through the needles you will not hurt your machine. Carriage is on the left. Hook the cast on comb onto the stitches that you just knit by giving it a little tug down and forward. Hang weights on the comb and continue knitting. This cast on is great for hanging a hem or turning over and picking it up to make a bottom treatment of some kind.
CROCHETED CAST ON
v Bring needles 10 L to 10R into the “E” position. Use a latch tool in your right hand. Hold the yarn in your left hand so that the end is hanging. Place the yarn on the left side of needle 10L. Use the latch tool and grab the yarn underneath needle 10L. Pull the yarn with the hook of the latch tool so that it comes under 10L. Push the latch tool up between needles 10L and 9L. This movement will push the loop that was in the hook of the tool moving it to the back and behind the latch. The hook should be sticking up between 10L and 9L pointing up in the air. Use the hook to catch the yarn that is above 10L and going up to the upper tension mast. Pull the yarn that you just caught in the hook down and through the loop that is behind the latch thus creating a stitch around 10L. Pull the loop down under needle 9L and push the latch tool up between needle 9L and 8L. Push the latch tool up between needles 9L and 8L. Use the hook to catch the yarn that is above 9L and going up to the upper tension mast. Pull the yarn that you just caught i the hook down and through the loop that is behind the latch thus creating a stitch around 9L. Continue this process across the bed. Place your last loop onto the last needle that you want to use. Put the yarn into the “A” feeder of the sinker plate and knit 1 row to the left. You can repeat the entire process at this time if you want to use this for a decorative edge. Just remember that you must do the crocheted edge between the piece that is on the machine already and the bed of the machine if you want to see it on the knitted side of the work.
HANGING A HEM
v This is just a method of creating a finished edge or hem on a garment. The primary way of doing this is to use one of the cast on methods described above, knitting some rows and then placing the bottom stitches or “cast on stitches” back up onto the needles that are currently in use on the machine and then continuing to knit. Use the e wrap method above and cast on from 10 left to 10 right. Knit 24 rows. Now look at the stitches on the bottom of this piece of knitting. Place this bottom edge back up onto the needles 10 left to 10 right. You can pick up the whole cast on stitch by picking up both the front and the back strands of the stitch or you can pick up either the back or the front strand. This is personal preference. Just be consistent across your work.
v Pull out into “E” position the needles that you want to use. Let�s say 10 left to 10 right. Push every other one back into the “A” or non-working position so that you are now only working on 10L, 8L, 6L, 4L 2L, 1R, 3R, 5R, 7R, and 9R. E wrap cast on these needles. Knit 10 rows. Pull the remaining “in between needles to the “B” position so that you are now going to work on all needles from 10L to 10R. Knit 12 rows. Hang a hem on every other needle (because that is all you cast on). Continue knitting.
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LATCH TOOL BIND OFF
v This is done using a latch tool. It cannot be done on a machine that does not have gate pegs. (See your instruction book). You have knit a piece of fabric say from needle #30 left to #30 right. Make sure the carriage is on the right. Pull all of the needles into the “E” position(�D� Singer Studio). Take the yarn out of the “A” feeder of the sinker plate so that it goes straight up from the machine bed and fabric to the upper tension unit. **Your left hand should be placed on the needle bed so your thumb is on the butt of the most right needle. In this case it is needle #30 right. Your latch tool should be in your right hand. Hook your latch tool into the hook of needle #30 right. The two hooks are now together. Now using your left thumb which is on the butt of needle # 30 right pull that needle butt back to the back of the machine (“A” position). The hook of the latch tool that is in your right hand should get pulled through the stitch that is on that needle and the stitch should transfer over onto the latch tool. Take your left index finger and place it on the yarn that is going up to the upper tension unit and push the yarn down on the needle bed next to the butt of the most right needle that is in “E” position. In this case it is needle #29 right. Using your right hand and he latch tool in it, grab hold of the yarn with the latch tool and pull the yarn through the stitch that is on the latch tool. The stitch should come off of the tool and a new stitch should be created on the tool (just like crocheting). Notice too that the yarn that created the stitch is wrapped around the gate peg. Place this stitch onto the next needle that is to be bound off. This will be needle #29 right. ** Continue to do this from ** to ** with each stitch until all are bound off.
STANDARD TENSION SWATCH
Weaving brush cast on 60 stitches (L30 – R30). Knit 4 rows. Transfer every other stitch to every other needle = to the tension. If your tension dial is set at 5 then transfer every other stitch to every other needle 5 times. Say stitch 9 left goes on 10 left, 7 left goes on 8 left, 5 left goes on 6 left, 3 left goes on 4 left, and 1 left goes on 2 left. Make sure all the needles that you just made empty are left in the “B” position.
Knit 4 rows. Move Stitch # L21 to L22 and Stitch # R21 to R22. Leave both of these empty needles out of work. There is then a 40 stitch space between these out of work needles. Change to a contrast color yarn and Knit 2 rows.
Set the row counter to 0. Using whatever pattern you want to � Knit 60 rows . Just remember “WHAT EVER YOU WANT TO DO TO THE SWEATER OR GARMENT YOU MUST DO TO THE SWATCH”. So whatever pattern you want to use to knit the sweater you must knit here in the swatch.
After the 60 rows are complete. Knit 2 rows of contrast color in plain stockinette stitch (no pattern). Knit 4 more rows of plain and bind off.
Let rest 24 hours. Steam, wash, dry, stretch, �whatever you want to be able to do to the sweater now do to the swatch. Once all is complete you can measure the swatch from where needle # 21 was left out of work on one side to where needle # 21 was left out of work on the other. To make it easy just say that the 40 stitches measures 4 inches. Divide 40 stitches by 4 inches and you have 10 stitches per inch.
Find the first set of 2 rows of contrast yarn. Measure from it to the second set of 2 rows of contrast yarn. In these 60 rows, you knit your preferred pattern. Let’s say the 60 rows measure 5 inches. You then divide the 60 rows by the 5 inches and know you have 12 rows per inch. Once you know your required measurements for the garment you want to knit, it is just a mater of multiplication.
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Sizes for children